If you are planning a trip to the Amalfi Coast, then this itinerary will be your perfect guide! I spent three weeks exploring this fantastic region and I share everything you need to know to plan your trip in this blog post!
The Amalfi Coast was the perfect destination to recharge my batteries after a year of home working and not being able to travel. Italy holds some kind of fairytale enchantment that continues to pull me back. It is like its gelato; I cannot resist it and when it is finished, I keep craving for more!
Italy is the first southern country I visited in my childhood. I still remember that day trip to the Garda lake, when I was staying in Austria with my parents. How excited I felt crossing the border to Italy! It was the first time I saw palm trees in real life! We bought cherries at a small local market, which we cleaned in a fountain to eat. It was so simple, but for me this was such a magical experience! From that year on, we traveled to Italy every summer.
Which is why Italy is the first country I visited, once travel was allowed again. Last year I went hiking at the Dolomites and visited Treviso and Venice for a day. This time I decided to explore the Gulf of Naples and the Amalfi Coast for three weeks. After all who can resist limestone cliffs decorated with a rainbow of pastel colored houses and the azure blue sea lapping black pebble beaches with their perfectly aligned umbrellas? The Costiera Amalfitana is a piece of true paradise along the Tyrrhenian Sea.
I needed to go somewhere I could both relax and explore. I wanted to go on a real vacation (which I never do), but I also wanted to be able to still do some activities and visit interesting places. The Gulf of Naples and the Amalfi Coast seemed the perfect places to combine beautiful nature, good food, culture and beaches. Turned out I was completely right!
This article is created in collaboration with Gianni’s Boats and Italy Vintage Tours.
Amalfi Coast Itinerary: everything you need to know
TABLE OF CONTENT
- Amalfi Coast Itinerary: everything you need to know
- Procida, pastel heaven in the Gulf of Naples
- Where to stay in Procida?
- Things you need to know before visiting Procida
Sorrento, the perfect base
The first week I stayed in Sorrento. Not only is it a more affordable option, it is also the perfect base to explore other places in the Gulf of Naples or the Amalfi Coast. Sorrento is a cliffside town, known for its lemons and the production of limoncello. Its streets are packed with shops selling limoncello in all sizes and other lemon themed stuff like soap, candy, clothing, perfumes, etc. Name it, they have it in lemon form!
How to get to Sorrento?
Like most people, I arrived by plane at the international airport of Naples Capodichino. There are different options to reach Sorrento from the airport;
- I booked a private transfer via my hotel to pick me up. This is the fastest way, but also the most expensive (85€). I also used private transfers during this trip to get to different places. But you will find more about that later in this post! (including the contact details of my favorite driver!) I loved the ride along the coast passing the impressive Vesuvio volcano!
- The Curreri bus takes you straight from the airport to Sorrento. It only costs 10€ and takes about 75 minutes. You need to check its time schedule though!
- Renting a car is another option, but I would not recommend this if you are not used to drive in Italy. Especially if you plan to keep the car to drive around the Amalfi Coast. There is only one bendy narrow coastal road and not only is it difficult to drive, it also gets incredibly busy during the day. Finding a parking space is also very rare and if you do manage to find one, you will pay a LOT of parking money! I have spent quite some time in a car on this road and the tricks and things the drivers needed to do… At least they knew the risky parts in advance… It were often tourists who are not used to drive here that caused traffic lines and trouble.
- You can take the train. First you will need to catch the Alibus, which is a shuttle service between the airport and Naples. (4€ / 20 min) At the Napoli Centrale train station you can choose between two trains; the Circumvesuviana or the Campania Express. The Circumvesuviana is the cheaper option. It is a commuter train and known for getting busy, doing a lot of stops and pickpocketing. To be honest, I took the Circumvesuviana to go to Pompeii and luckily I did not experience any of this. The Campania Express is a cleaner, faster more expensive option (still less than 10€). You can buy tickets online.
- If you decide to take a taxi, make sure to inform about the price in advance.
Things to do in Sorrento
Shopping
Of course one of the key things to do in any city is shopping! There are two shopping streets in Sorrento; the Corso Italia and the Via S. Cesareo. The Corso Italia is the main street, where you find bigger shops selling souvenirs, clothes or more luxurious goods, but also pharmacies, restaurants and bars. The smaller souvenir shops are located at the Via S. Cesareo.
Eating & drinking
Sorrento has plenty of restaurants and bars to choose from, so you will never get hungry or thirsty! These are my favorite restaurants in Sorrento, all with affordable prices:
- Ristorante ‘O Parrucchiano La Favorita: This restaurant situated on the Corso Italia offers fantastic food in a magical atmosphere! This is one of the few places where you will get a table under the lemon trees! I went there twice; once for lunch so I could take a good look at the place and visit its magnificent garden as well. The second time I came for dinner with new American friends and it looked even more romantic with the lights in the trees!
- Ristorante Zi’Ntonio: There are two Zi’Ntonio’s at Sorrento; one in the town center and one at Marina Grande. I went for dinner at the one located in the town, but I will surely go to the one at the small harbour as well when I return. The staff really brings life and laughter to the place and the food was delicious! You should definitely try their Taglioni in crosta di parmigiano con zucchine, gamberetti e zafferano.
- Le Grazie: Tucked away in an alley named Via Santa Maria delle Grazie, you will find the family restaurant Le Grazie. At the door you will find an elderly man constantly singing and talking, trying to lure people in, but not in an annoying way. I found him quite amusing to watch. Also the waiters were really sweet. I loved their pizza and tiramisu!
- The Garden da Gennaro: I loved that this restaurant is located on a terrace! They pay a little more attention to serve their food in a more sophisticated way than the previous restaurants and it had a bit more of a “fancy” vibe. Which is not necessary for me, but the food was good! Try their Fiori di zucca!
- Sedil Dominova: If you are looking for a cheaper place to eat, that still offers decent food and friendly staff, you should go here! They had one of the most popular terraces right across the Dominova Seat.
Best places to visit in Sorrento
Sorrento is a small town and has no famous monuments like Sienna, Pisa or Verona. This does not mean there is nothing to see or do! Sorrento is a town you need to experience by walking and looking around, smelling, tasting… Just wander around the town and let all its vibes come to you.
- Marina Grande: Small harbor with cute fish restaurants, colorful boats and a beach.
- Marina Piccola: Big harbor where you can find all the ferries and have a good view on the cliffs
- Giardini di Cataldo: You can visit the gardens of one of the “best companies in Southern Italy“. Here the Esposito family produces citrus fruits, liqueurs, marmalade and gelato using artisanal techniques.
- The garden of Ristorante ‘O Parrucchiano: You do not have to book a table to be able to visit this restaurant’s garden. The entrance is free!
- Chiostro di San Francesco: You can visit this beautiful cloister’s courtyard for free
- “The Italians” by Raffaele Celentano: On the top floor of the Chiostro di San Francesco you will find this beautiful photo exhibition showing pictures of Italians, made by Sorrento born photographer Raffaele Celentano. These photos really touched me in various ways. Some made me teary eyed, others made me smile. He really knows how to capture the beauty of the ordinary Italian life! Also the place and the way these photos were exhibited added to the whole concept. Some photos were printed on blankets hanging on a washing line between underwear and dresses. The swing on the terrace, that was used in one of his photos with a swinging nun, was also still there. I wish I was able to buy some of his photos, but it was impossible to carry them for two more weeks in my suitcase, let alone take them on the plane.
- Sunset at Villa Communale: This park offers a magnificent view on the cliffs of Sorrento, Capri and the Vesuvio.
- Vallone dei Mulini: In this gorge in the middle of the town you can find the ruins of a six-story mill that was abandoned at the start of the 20th century. It used to be covered with lush vegetation which made this place super pretty and mysterious, but in 2019 restoration started and all the greens have been cut away. Now there is a whole issue going on with prosecutors asserting that the restoration works violated local heritage protection laws, so the project is frozen. Let’s hope they will restore it in its former shape.
- Bagni Regina Giovanna: one of the most enchanting places of Sorrento where you will find ruins of a Roman villa and a gorgeous secluded beach.
Day trips from Sorrento
Day Trips by train
Sorrento’s train station is the terminus of the Circumvesuviana. This is a commuter train that looks more like a city metro riding between Naples and Sorrento. It is very cheap and stops at all the famous places that should not be missing in your Amalfi Coast itinerary like Pompeii, Ercolano and Naples.
Pompeii
2000 years ago the city of Pompeii got covered with hot ashes and pumice from the erupting volcano Vesuvio (not with lava like Ercolano). Everyone who was still present in the city during the eruption was killed. These days you can visit the ruins of this former port city. The city covered about 67 hectares. 30% of the city is still burried.
I took the train to Pompeii from Sorrento, which only costed me 4.80€ (return ticket). The ride took 41 minutes. The entrance of Pompeii is about 50 meters away from the train station Pompeii Scavi. It is best to book your tickets for Pompeii online, so you do not have to stand in line. I booked tickets for the first time frame (it opens at 9.00 am) and I was one of the first people to enter the open air museum.
At times I had complete streets to myself, which gave a surreal feeling as if I was transported back into time. I spent about 4 hours at Pompei, wandering its streets, exploring the houses, temples, theatres etc. But I am sure I did not see it all. This place is enormous! If you are looking for the casts of the victims; there are only a few located at Pompeii itself (exact location: Orto dei Fuggiaschi). The others are exhibited at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli.
Opening hours: 9.00 – 19.00 / entrance fee: 19€ / Piazza Porta Marina Inferiore, 80045 Pompei
Day Trips by Boat
From Marina Piccola plenty of ferries leave to various locations in the Gulf of Naples and at the Amalfi Coast. You can go to Capri, Amalfi, Positano, Napoli, Ischia and Procida. I booked my tickets online in advance via Alilauro and Traghettilines. That way I was sure I had a spot during the high season. Taking a ferry is cheaper than taking a taxi and you get great views on the way!
Capri
Capri is another place that should be included in your Amalfi Coast itinerary! It is surely the island for the rich and famous with its designer boutiques and expensive hotels. The island is surrounded by hundreds of yachts. I even spotted one of the most expensive and biggest yachts in the world; Yacht A from the Russian billionaire Andrey Melnichenko. But Capri is also a very popular tourist destination at the Amalfi Coast. Every year over two million tourists visit the small island. It is only a 20 minute boat ride away from Sorrento. It is fun to watch all the designer windows and Capri has also beautiful nature and sights to offer!
When you arrive at Capri it is best to buy a ticket for the funicolare. This is a small railway taking you up to the town of Capri. It only costs 2€ to get there. The ticket office is located next to the ticket booths of the ferries. Once you are up you can decide if you want to explore the surroundings of Capri first or immediately take the bus to Anacapri or other places on the island. I advise to buy your bus tickets first, also if you prefer to explore the town of Capri first. So you do not have to stand in line for a ticket later. The line for the bus itself will be long enough already, trust me.
- Giardini di Augusto: A beautiful garden located near the city center of Capri. Just follow the Via Vittorio Emanuele and the Via Federico Serena to the Via Matteotti. Turn right in this street and at the end you will find the garden with its amazing terrace overlooking the Faraglioni and Via Krupp. It opens at 9.00 am.
- Via Krupp: A historic hairpin turn paved footpath leading towards Marina Piccola. It is currently closed due to the danger of falling rocks.
- Anacapri: A small town on the island where you will find a lot of restaurants and cute souvenir shops.
- Via Pizzolungo: If you are more into nature, you can hike the Via Pizzolungo with fantastic coastal views!
- Marina Piccola: A charming little harbor and beach.
- Villa San Michele: This beautiful villa was built on the ruins of an ancient Chapel dedicated to San Michele at the end of the 19th century by the Swedish physician and author Axel Munthe. Munthe collected various objects like fragments of sarcophaguses, busts, marble, columns and even a Greek tomb and granite sphinx looking over a fantastic view of Capri can be found here.
- Villa Jovis: Ruins of a Roman palace built by emperor Tiberius.
- Villa Lysis: This villa is built by industrialist and poet Jacques d’Adelswärd-Fersen in 1905. You can visit this villa’s interior and gardens and enjoy the views!
Another must is a tour around the island by private boat! This is truly another experience! The bigger tourist boats do not get that close to the cliffs and cannot enter the caves. The traditional gozzo boats of Gianni’s Boats do! This company offers great price-quality. Depending what tour option you choose (I did the 3 hour tour around the island) you get to taste Gianni’s mom’s homemade limoncello! It was truly the best limoncello I ever tasted! If the sea level allows it, you can also visit the Grotta Azzurra on this tour. I already did it as a child and the sea level was too high to enter, so I did not do it.
I loved this tour and I had the sweetest “captain” named Marco. He even made me stand on a rock in the sea to take photos and had the best playlist of Italian songs to add a little extra to the trip. While we were going through the arch of the Faraglioni, I had tears in my eyes from pure happiness! The views of these impressive rock formations, the wind through my hair and “That’s Amore” playing in the background just gave me chills! Do not hesitate to book this tour when traveling solo. The “captain” will surely make an effort to help you with photos, since you will not be able to use a tripod on the boat (it drops due to the waves). I attached my GoPro to the boat’s mast which was an excellent way to take photos and film as well!
Eating and drinking can be quite expensive at Capri. But I found the most charming restaurant at Anacapri; Il Saraceno! It is situated at the Via Trieste e Trento next to the Chiesa di Santa Sofia. You cannot miss it since it is the only terrace on this small square. It offers local cuisine and the elderly man working here was super sweet, handling it all on its own! Prices were very reasonable here!
I also drank a very good Limoncello Spritz at Peppino Buonocore. It is situated right across the ferry ticket office at the harbor. It was the ideal spot to wait for the traghetto to arrive.
Guided Day Trips or Transfers
If you prefer a guided trip you can surely book them via your hotel. I booked a day trip by car along the Amalfi Coast. It was nice to have a first quick look at Positano, Amalfi and Ravello and hear about all the legends. But if you really want to explore and experience these towns, I would recommend spending at least half a day at each town. The trip costed 75€ (lunch included).
Transfers from Sorrento to any town at the Amalfi Coast are often quite expensive (80-120€). My favorite transfer driver was Eduardo from EduardoShoreExcursions. He was super sweet and talkative! If I need a transfer driver next time, I will surely contact him again!
Another awesome activity is visiting the Vesuvio. This is still considered to be one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world. Not only because its eruptions are very explosive, but also because its surroundings are extremely densely populated. Every time Vesuvius erupted after a long interval, it has been highly destructive and killed thousands of people. The volcano is currently dormant and it is easy to visit and walk around its crater. I did it as a kid and I thought it was pretty impressive! A lot of tour companies organise this trip so make sure to book one when in Sorrento!
Where to stay in Sorrento?
Hotel Rivage
The Amalfi Coast and the Gulf of Naples are one of the most expensive regions in Italy. So I spent the first days of my trip in more budget friendly hotels. The first 6 nights I stayed at Hotel Rivage, perfectly located at the edge of the city center. The people working here were friendly and jovial. I could ask anything. The rooms were quite spacious, modern and very clean. The pool was located on the rooftop with a nice view on the bay. There were not that many lounge chairs at the pool, so I had my own tricks. If I wanted to lay at the pool in the afternoon, I did an “early lunch” around noon and made sure to arrive at the pool around 1.00 pm. At that timing most people were still out for lunch and I could pick any chair.
The breakfast buffet was extensive! There were the usual sweet Italian pastries and cakes, but also fruit, bread rolls, charcuterie etc. You could also ask for eggs, the way you like them! Hotel Rivage is one of the budget friendliest hotels with a pool at Sorrento and it pleasantly surprised me how good it was!
Price for an economy double room with balcony internal view – single use in August: 120€/night, breakfast included. Book your stay at hotel Rivage here!
Hotel Antiche Mura
The three other nights I spent at Hotel Antiche Mura. This fancier hotel is located right in the city center of Sorrento, next to the Valley of the Mills. It has a beautiful pool surrounded by lemon trees. The people working at the reception were a bit more stiff and in uniform, since this hotel has a more chic vibe. But they were helpful and friendly. The guys working at the pool were more open and even knew a trick to get rid of wasps at the outdoor tables; place a plate of prosciutto somewhere! Apparently wasps love it and will not bother you anymore!
The room had a classic look with a gorgeous tiled floor. But it was smaller than my room at hotel Rivage! The breakfast buffet was also good, but with less choice than Hotel Rivage. Luckily you could order eggs and fresh fruit as well!
Price for a classic double room with rear view (I had a balcony with view on the canyon!) in August: 183€/night, breakfast included. Book your stay at Hotel Antiche Mura here!
Things you need to know before visiting Sorrento
Sorrento is built on a cliff which means the city lies about 50 meters higher than its beaches and harbors. But do not worry! If you arrive at Sorrento by ferry, you do not need to take the stairs up. There is an elevator connecting Marina Piccola with the park of Villa Communale. It only costs 1€ and is cheaper than taking a taxi. It opens at 7.30 am and closes at midnight.
If you need to cath a ferry for a day trip early in the morning at Sorrento (before 7.30 am) you can take the stairs at Piazza Tasso. But if you carry luggage I advise to take a taxi down (price from Piazza Tasso to Marina Piccola was 15€).
Procida, pastel heaven in the Gulf of Naples
Procida put a spell on me as soon as I arrived and saw all the pastel colored houses, the fishing boats and the boutiques. It is a small island situated between Ischia and the coast of Cape Miseno in the Gulf of Naples. It was the decor for movies like Il Postino and The Talented Mr Ripley and it is becoming more popular every year. Procida has been chosen to be Italy’s capital of culture in 2022, so this will only bring more fame to this pretty little island.
How to get to Procida?
To reach the island of Procida, I took the Alilauro traghetto at Sorrento. This went better than I had planned! I had booked my tickets online, but I could not find any direct ferry to Procida. So I booked the traghetto to Ischia, to take another boat from Ischia to Procida. It turned out the Alilauro ferry to Ischia first made a stop at Procida! Apparently there is a direct ferry from Alilauro that only goes on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays at 9.10 am and 3.50 pm. I was lucky to have booked one without knowing, because this information was not easy to find online! (Now I have found it, you can book the direct ferry here). You can also take a ferry from Napoli or Pozzuoli, depending on where you are staying.
Things to do in Procida
Shopping
Procida has some cute local boutiques, not only souvenirs but also clothing and accessories. The main shopping area is located at Via Vittorio Emanuele and the harbor where the ferry arrives.
Eating & drinking
Most restaurants can be found at the main harbor, Marina Chiaiolella and Corricella.
At Restaurant La Graziella at Corricella I experienced the kindness of the island locals for the first time. I had been exploring during the hot afternoon and longed for a cold drink. A small group of men were having lunch at this restaurant’s terrace. I asked them whether it was open for a drink. They immediately said it was OK and I ordered two drinks, because I was so thirsty. After I was finished and wanted to pay, the owner told me I did not need to pay; it was on the house! This confused me so much! So I thanked him and said I would return for dinner. This resulted in me dining at this restaurant every night, because it turned out to be a good restaurant with a super sweet staff. There was a great ambiance and every night I had company of stray cats next to my feet. So make sure to visit this restaurant with its local cuisine when visiting Procida (And try their Limoncello Spritz! It goes straight to your head and will make the walk to your hotel more pleasant!).
I loved the pizza at Fuego, also located at Corricella. But make sure to make a reservation, if you want to have dinner here. Because it was full every evening! For lunch reservations were not necessary.
I often took a light breakfast on the terrace of Felice Mare. This is a family-owned bar and its terrace is decorated with small colorful boats.
I had lunch at La Lampara. This restaurant is situated at the end of Via Marina di Corricella and has the best view of the whole bay! It is a bit more pricey but the melanzane alla parmigiana and its sea food are delicious! Also here make sure to book a table in advance for both lunch and dinner!
Sights
Corricella
Corricella is the most famous and photogenic part of Procida. It is the small port where you find most of the pastel colored houses and fishing boats. I was there at the beginning of September and it was never too crowded. It had such a lovely, laid-back atmosphere! The street leading along the waterfront decorated with colorful boats and fishing nets, contains terraces belonging to cute restaurants and bars. It surprised me to see how trendy and “hipster” some of these places were! This was not what I expected from a place with such a local feeling. I loved sitting at one of the terraces, watching the locals arrive with their small boats, while sipping from a tasty Limoncello Spritz.
Sunset at the Corricella viewpoint
Even though the view at the Corricella viewpoint on top of the Salita Castello is always awe inspiringly beautiful, make sure to also climb up at sunset! I thought I was unlucky choosing a cloudy evening to get up there at sunset, but even then the sky was gorgeous with orange, pink and purple colors!
Also here I experienced local kindness twice! The security guys working here helped me with taking photos by holding my tripod, which was standing on top of a 2 meter high pilar. It was too dangerous to let it just stand there, since the tripod’s legs weren’t able to fully spread. So it was not 100% stable and there were gusts of wind. So these guys helped me by simply holding the tripod, while I took photos with my phone connected to the camera. One time at sunrise and one time at sunset. I was so grateful for this!
Belvedere Elsa Morante
This viewpoint is located at the southside of Corricella at the Via Pizzaco. From here you can see Corricella, Spiaggia della Chiaia and the Vesuvio!
Chiaiolella Marina
This is the port where you will find all the fancy yachts at Procida, some shops and restaurants. You will encounter a lot of locals who spent a day at the nearby beach.
Spiaggia Cala del Pozzo Vecchio
This is the beach where Il Postino was filmed. If you are a fan, a must visit!
Where to stay in Procida?
Hotel Savoia
I stayed 3 nights at Hotel Savoia, the oldest and first hotel ever of Procida. I chose this hotel because it was one of the cheapest with a pool! My single room, to my pleasant surprise, had a big bathroom and was decorated in traditional style. I loved the pool area, which was situated in a big garden with citrus trees. This hotel seemed to be very popular with Italians, since I did not encounter any other nationalities at the hotel. Breakfast was typical Italian and quite basic. I only had breakfast here once, since I often left the hotel already at 7.00 am to enjoy the beautiful morning light.
The only downside of the hotel is that it is located 2 km from Corricella. Which to me was not a problem, since I actually enjoyed the walk. I went to Corricella twice a day, morning and evening, which means I walked 8 km per day, only to go there and return to the hotel. Since I did this walk so often and the island is not that big, there were quite a few people who started to recognize me and waved hello from their motorcycles and electric bikes. I really started to feel as if I was living there (I wish!)! If you do not like to walk, you can always take the small bus.
Price for a single room in September: 86€/night, breakfast included. Book your stay at Hotel Savoia here!
San Michele Boutique Hotel
I met a lovely photographer from Paris during one of my early mornings at the viewpoint of Corricella. She stayed at the San Michele Boutique Hotel. It is situated in the middle of Corricella, so you can have breakfast on the terrace overlooking the cute bay with its fishing boats. The rooms have a bohemian vibe with white walls, wooden & bamboo furniture and decorated with woven baskets. It does not have a pool, but I think I might stay there next time because of its great location and look!
Price for a standard double room in September: 270€/night, breakfast included. Book your stay at San Michele Boutique Hotel here!
Things you need to know before visiting Procida
The streets in Procida are very narrow and there are no sidewalks. In the early morning this did not really disturb me, but one morning I was a little later and traffic was crazy. Not because there were too many cars, but because there were trucks blocking the roads. The things I saw that morning! Local drivers here are real experts! A car was driving between a truck and a wall with only 1mm space left from the wall. I watched this spectacle in awe with mouth and eyes wide open. I also saw a lot of scratched cars though.
But my point is; make sure to walk on the left side of the road, so you can see the nearest traffic approaching. Because not only cars, but also motorcycles and e-bikes drive really close to you. At night sometimes this was a little scary, since there were not that many street lights. So be careful!
Positano, the dream at the Amalfi Coast
After the Gulf of Naples it was time to explore the Amalfi Coast. The first town I explored was Positano. An Amalfi Coast Itinerary without Positano is not complete. This charming town captivated me at first sight. All these colorful houses, built on top of each other, spiraling down the hillsides surrounded by the lush green Monti Lattari overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, are a feast for the eyes!
I had been here as a child, but I only remembered a lot of walking and a parking fine my dad received, because we could not find a decent parking spot. How I was able to forget all the colors, flowers and the glistening cobalt blue sea, is incomprehensible. Probably because all I wanted back then, is playing at the pool. Positano has a vibe and if it catches you, you will never be able to let it go! It certainly caught me this time, because I really want to return!
How to get to Positano?
Since there are no direct ferries to Positano from Procida, I first took a ferry to Ischia. From there I could board the traghetto that stops in Capri, Positano, Amalfi and Salerno. Enjoy this boat ride passing stunning views on Castello Aragonese d’Ischia, Capri’s main harbor, Punta Campanella, Baia di Ieranto and the Amalfi Coast with all its towns decorating the coastal cliffs.
Coming from the airport, it is pretty much the same way as to Sorrento. Except, if you decide to take a train or bus, you still need to take an extra transfer/taxi from Sorrento Station to Positano or take the SITA bus. Or you can take the train from Naples to Salerno and then take a ferry to Positano.
Things to do in Positano
Positano is all about la dolce vita; enjoying life to the fullest in all luxury. You can find some of the finest hotels and restaurants here (and also the most expensive of the Amalfi Coast). If you are on a budget, you will not be able to experience Positano at its best. This is a place to spoil yourself with everything this beautiful place has to offer!
Shopping
Positano is small, but a true paradise for shopping at the Amalfi Coast! Indulge in local fashion in boutiques like Antica Sartoria or treat yourself to some beautiful ceramics. There are plenty of shops to choose from. My favorites for ceramics were Ceramica Assunta and Delicatessen di Cinque where I bought a cute ceramic dome diffuser. But they also sell local treats, which you can taste!
Eating and drinking
Plenty of options to have a nice aperitivo or a good meal are waiting for you at Positano. Whether you like to enjoy a Limoncello Spritz near the beach or spoil yourself with an excellent meal with a view of the bay, you will find it all! But all at a more pricier rate than Sorrento or Procida. If I had stayed longer I would have visited way more places like the posh Bar Franco and Terrazza Cele. So I will keep those for next time. These are the ones I did visit though:
I had lunch twice at Li Galli. Firstly because the food was good, secondly; the view and thirdly; the nice waiters. Right before my first visit, I had fallen on my knee. So while I was seated, I was cleaning my knee and the tiny wound. One of the waiters saw it, looked worried and asked if I wanted some ice. So sweet! Luckily I did not need it!
Chez Black is probably one of the most famous restaurants of Positano. Without a reservation it is impossible to get a table! The restaurant looks like the interior of a ship and the walls are covered with photos of celebrities that came here. Their seafood dishes are amazing, but the staff (wearing sailor outfits by the way) was a little less friendly than the other places I have been too. Probably because it was super crowded, mostly with tourists.
At Buca di Bacco I ate the best fiori di zucca (fried zucchini flowers) and lemon risotto. The waiters are super friendly and the restaurant has a big terrace decorated with lights, where you can enjoy the view of the beach and the sky turning orange, pink and purple during sunset.
Vintage Fiat 500 Tour & the famous fruit stand
During this Amalfi Coast trip one of my biggest dreams came true! I got to drive around in a vintage Fiat 500 car! I did not drive myself (luckily, because it seemed hard to start the engine at times), but was accompanied by Luciano, the father of the owner of Italy Vintage Tours. He took me along the coast of Positano and helped me with taking photos. It felt as if I was beamed back into time. Driving on these winding narrow roads with open roof, the wind in my hair and all the magnificent views felt like absolute bliss!
The funniest moments I had at the famous fruit stand of Salvatore Milano. He sells fruit and fresh juices at a viewpoint near the famous Il San Pietro di Positano Hotel and is already so well introduced to the world of photography and social media! When I arrived with Luciano in the car, he made sure we were able to park next to the stand. He made everyone step aside as if I was a famous movie star, so we were able to take photos. He even hung fruits on the car, took my camera from my tripod and showed me how to pose. It was hilarious, but also sweet. He really made an effort, so I had nice photos and had a good time. If you are in Positano, make sure to give him a visit and try his juices!
After that the tour continued and I had a lovely time with Luciano. He was the sweetest man. We had such fun conversations. When we had to say goodbye at the end of the trip he said “You are such a lovely nice girl and I really wish you all the best in life!”. The way he said it with such sincerity, broke my heart and brought tears to my eyes. This was so sweet of him!
So if you are ever in Positano, make sure to book a trip with Luciano and Giuseppe of Italy Vintage Tours! You will have a lovely time with the sweetest local people sharing some nice information about the area as well!
Beach
Usually I am never able to sit still for more than an hour while traveling. But before my departure, I had promissed myself to relax on this Amalfi Coast trip! And the best place to do that truly is Positano. I rented a lounge chair on the first row for 30€ (other rows are 25€), not only because I wanted to be close to the water. But also because I travel solo and that way I could always see my stuff, if I decided to go for a swim.
From my chair I could order drinks and food via a QR code attached to the umbrella. Prices were a bit exaggerated (15€ for a pizza Margherita), but for once I could not care. How wonderful it was to lay in the sun and get drinks and food delivered with just a few clicks. Also the people were so friendly. Next to me sat an Italian family, who rubbed my back with sunscreen and even shared snacks!
Remember that beaches at the Amalfi coast are volcanic and consist of pebbles, not sand. So if you want to spare your feet, get some water sandals. Because it can be very hurtful to walk on them.
Church Of Santa Maria Assunta
Right in the middle of all the stacked colorful villas up the cliff side, the colorful majolica tiled dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta is glittering. The church itself may not be the most stunning in the world (actually its walls could use a new coat of paint), but its iconic dome with its intricate pattern of green, yellow and blue tiles sparkling in contrast with the blue sky and sea, sure is a sight to see! Inside a Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary that was once part of a monastery can be spotted.
Boat tour
I regret not doing a boat trip at the Amalfi Coast, except the ferry trip from Procida. People told me a day cruise is fun to do, as well as a private sunset trip! The views from the sea are amazing! But now I have a reason to surely return!
Hiking
I found it too hot to go hiking, but if you visit the Amalfi Coast during spring or autumn, I strongly advise to hike Il Sentiero degli Dei. Best is to start at Bomerano to Nocelle because that way the path runs downhill.
Another beautiful hike I dream of doing is the hike to Montepertuso. Montepertuso means “pierced rock” and is named after the gigantic natural hole in the rock that you can see from the village.
Where to stay in Positano?
It is an understatement to say that hotels at the Amalfi Coast, especially in Positano are not cheap. The closer to the beach and the center, the pricier. Hotels with a pool are also way more expensive than without. In Positano I decided to treat myself to something extra, since I had not been able to travel for a year and I wanted to experience the “real Positano”, meaning the more luxurious one.
Villa Giusy
Villa Giusy was my home for two nights. This small boutique hotel is located right in the middle of the town’s center, only a few steps away from the Santa Maria Assunta church and the beach and its big terrace has the best view of Positano! So impressive that even Le Sirenuse, its 5 star neighbor, already offered to buy the property! My room had a small terrace and every morning I woke up to the sight of the dome twinkling in the morning light and the sound of the waves! An extensive breakfast is served on the beautifully tiled terrace, so you can eat while admiring the views!
Price for a standard double room with sea view in September: 261€/night, breakfast included. Book your stay at Villa Giusy here!
Villa Mary Suites
I regret staying only one night at Villa Mary Suites! I received the warmest welcome from Tiziana, the owner. She explained everything about the B&B, which route to walk to get to the town center easily and everything you can do at Positano. I absolutely loved her positive vibes and charm and felt like I could talk to her for hours.
I stayed at the blue themed Calipso room. In the morning breakfast was served on my own private terrace overlooking the bay and the green mountains. Let me tell you that this was one of the best breakfasts I had during my three week trip, including pancakes and eggs! Villa Mary also has a beautiful pool with, again, a magnificent view on the bay! Even though this gorgeous B&B is situated a little more uphill, I still loved its location, showing me a more local part of Positano. The amount of stairs I had to do every time I wanted to go to the center and return were quite a challenge, but a nice workout!
Price for a junior suite with terrace and partial sea view in September: 327€/night breakfast included. Book your stay at Villa Mary Suites here!
Things you need to know before visiting Positano
Location Location Location
Visiting Positano comes with quite some challenges, if you come unprepared! Since Positano is completely built on hills and cliffs, its streets are narrow and steep and often consist of only stairs. So it is important to know where you will arrive (depending on the way of transportation) and where your hotel is located (ask your hotel for the exact location), if you do not want to get lost or drag your stuff around longer than necessary.
Rent a porter
My perfect plan was kind of ruined. I was meant to arrive by ferry, but thanks to the rough sea that evening, the boat could not dock in Positano. My first hotel was close to the beach, but I still had to do a lot of stairs. So my original plan was to arrive at the port of Positano and rent a porter to carry my suitcase to the hotel (15€).
But the ferry docked at Amalfi, so I had to take the Sita bus (2€) back to Positano (which was paid by the ferry company). This meant I arrived at the higher part of Positano at bus stop Sponda. Luckily I discovered there were also porters at Piazza dei Mulini. So I rented a porter (15€) there who carried my suitcase all the way down and back up to Villa Giusy. Trust me these porters are worth your money, unless you think it is fun to do 200 narrow steps with a 23 kilo suitcase!
Parking
I firmly advise against coming to Positano by car. Even local cars are already parked 2 kilometers outside of town, due to not finding any parking space, let alone you will find one. On top of that; free parking in the town center is only for residents (white and yellow lines) and the few free public parking spaces (blue lines) are always taken. If you find a parking space you will pay A LOT. In the street you pay 3€/hour, but like I said, these spots are always taken. So you will end up parking at the paid parking lots at a rate of 8 to 10€/hour.
Steps
Again, Positano consists of steep winding streets and a lot of stairs. By a lot I mean hundreds to thousands without exaggerating. So wear comfortable shoes (no heels) and always take enough water with you. In the evening a Limoncello Spritz made these heavy walks back up a little more bearable!
Amalfi and its gorgeous Duomo
The charming town of Amalfi is nestled at the end of an impressive ravine by the Tyrrhenian Sea. It was one of the first Italian cities to arise after the fall of the Roman Empire. Amalfi was, along with Venice, Genoa and Pisa, a powerful maritime republic and a trade bridge between the Byzantine and western world. This influenced the city’s architecture, especially its duomo. Now it is one of the most popular tourist destinations of the Amalfi Coast. I had to get used to the crowds. At Amalfi it seemed as if there are more people than in the other towns. But I think that is because it has only one main street, so everyone is at the same place.
How to get to Amalfi?
Coming from the airport, you have the same options as to go to Positano. If you come from another town at the Amalfi coast you can take the SITA bus for only 2€, the ferry or book a private transfer.
Things to do in Amalfi
Shopping
Paper Treasures
In the first half of the 12th century, Amalfi was one of the first places in Western Europe that produced paper. The Amatruda paper mill is one of the few still operating now, using more modern techniques. But the pulping and pressing process remained the same. So the paper still has the same composition as the artisan paper that was created during the old days, using a combination of cotton and the mountain water of the Canneto river. This is why you can find a lot of stores selling postcards, invitations, albums, business cards and notebooks,
Everything lemon
Just like in Sorrento you can find a lot of shops selling lemon soap, candy, cookies, limoncello,… basically everything with lemons.
Boutiques
Also in Amalfi you will find cute boutiques selling “la moda Positano”. Think of a more bohemian style with long flowy dresses and skirts, breezy cover-ups and linen fabrics, all with a touch of effortless glamour.
Eating & drinking
Lemon Sorbet
You can not go to Amalfi and not try their lemon sorbet served in a huge Sfusato d’Amalfi (which is how they call their lemons). Trust me, it will be the best lemon sorbet you have ever tasted!
Dinner with a view on the Duomo
I loved having dinner in front of the duomo at Bistrot F.lli Pansa. Not only was it perfect to be able to enjoy the view of this magnificent piece of architecture, I also loved to watch all the people stroll by. Make sure to make a reservation though!
Best places to visit in Amalfi
- Duomo di Amalfi and the Chiostro del Paradiso: The duomo is probably the most famous feature of Amalfi. But it is also worth to explore its interior. The first part you will encounter is a 13th century cloister in Moorish style featuring 120 columns and a beautiful garden. The cloister was used as a graveyard for the noble families of Amalfi in the medieval times. After visiting the Chiostro del Paradiso you will enter the duomo itself, where you can admire its beautiful romanesque and baroque architecture and religious artefacts.
- Paper Museum: This museum is located in a 14th century paper mill. The machinery and equipment like the wooden mauls, the press and the printing machine can all be admired here. You can also witness the hand-making production of paper and see the ancient water-mills at work.
- Narrow alleys to the cimitero: If you want to escape the crowds, just take one of the steps in the tiny alleys to the cemetery. Keep climbing up until you see the fantastic views of the back of the duomo and the town. I did this twice and barely encountered any people (except a Belgian follower who recognized me instantly, which was so fun!)
- Atrani: Next to Amalfi you can find the small coastal fishing village of Atrani. It is just a 10 minute walk through a tunnel of parking lot Luna Rossa to get there from Amalfi. This town is still untouched by mass tourism.
Where to stay in Amalfi?
Amalfi Resort
I spent one night at Amalfi Resort. I received a warm welcome; since it is rather difficult for cars to drive through Amalfi’s main street, Chiara, the receptionist, made sure a porter was waiting for me at Piazza Flavio Gioia. So he could take me in his small “golf cart-like” vehicle to the hotel with my heavy suitcase. Chiara was absolutely lovely and always ready to help and give me information. I absolutely loved this girl’s generous personality.
The hotel’s location is perfect; just follow the main street into the canyon and there where the shops stop, you will find the entrance of this lovely hotel. Even though you are at the heart of Amalfi, it is a tranquil place. The rooms are big and bright and the hotel has a lovely pool. Breakfast was served based on what you had chosen and indicated on the breakfast cart the day before. The hotel offered a wide variety of choice including eggs and “cake of the day”.
Price for a deluxe queen room in September: 220€/night, breakfast included. Book your stay at Amalfi Resort here!
Things you need to know before visiting Amalfi
Amalfi is definitely the most crowded place at the Amalfi Coast! If you would like to take photos of the duomo without the crowds, I advise to wake up at sunrise. Even then you will not be alone, since locals will already be busy with deliveries to restaurants and stores.
If you are driving a car yourself, park the car at one of the official parking lots. Do not enter the city center by car since it is too crowded and there is a traffic light where you will need to wait for a long time. You can rent a porter at Piazza Flavio Gioia to carry your luggage if the hotel is too far to do it yourself.
Ravello, the hidden treasure of the Amalfi Coast
After about 5 kilometers of driving up the winding mountain roads from Amalfi, I arrived in Ravello. Ravello is definitely one of the most evocative and romantic places on the colorful coastline south of Naples. Hidden high up in the mountains, it houses beautiful palaces, idyllic lush gardens and cute medieval alleyways. This awe-inspiring town also offers the most stunning views of the whole Amalfi Coast.
Ravello is called the city of music. Mainly because every year the Ravello Music Festival is organised in the gardens of Villa Rufolo. Unfortunately I only witnessed the breakdown of the stage, since I was there at the beginning of September (the festival takes place in July and August).
How to get to Ravello?
Coming from Sorrento, Positano or Amalfi you can take the SITA bus or a transfer. If you decide to visit Ravello straight from the airport I suggest to choose one of the options I already described earlier in this post. But the fastest (and most expensive) way from Naples Airport is by transfer. Ravello cannot be directly reached by ferry, since it is located in the mountains. You could take a ferry to Amalfi and then take the bus or transfer to Ravello.
Things to do in Ravello
Shopping
Even though Ravello is small, there are plenty of things to do and that includes shopping! Ravello has a lot of ceramic stores. I bought my ceramic plates at Ceramiche Cosmolena. They have 5 stores in Ravello. It is a family-owned business that produces its own designed handmade pottery items. The best thing is they have an enormous selection of diverse ceramics and they ship worldwide! Rosa, who worked at the store in Via S. Francesco, really helped me with choosing plates and bowls. She took her time showing all the different types and even escorted me to the main store, where there was even more to be found! If I was a rich girl, I would have bought them all!
I found some beautiful hair accessories at Blu Mediterraneo, where you can also buy these typical “Positano” dresses and swim wear.
Ravello would not be complete without the typical souvenir shops offering limoncello and other lemon things! But you will also find more sophisticated boutiques with big Italian brands.
Eating & drinking
I loved having lunch and aperitivo at the main square. This place is the beating heart of Ravello. You could watch the locals and other tourists passing by. But also a lot of local children play, bike and play football here. For dinner I found a lovely restaurant with a garden decorated with fairy lights named Giardini Calce. They are specialised in pizza, but they also offer other Italian cuisine.
Sights
Villa Rufolo
When you arrive at Ravello’s main square you cannot miss this ancient tower covered in leaves with its medieval gate. It grabs your attention instantly and draws you in. This is the entrance to Villa Rufolo, dating from the 13th century. The Rufolo family were a very powerful family in medieval Ravello. They built their villa combining Arab and Byzantine architecture. The villa needed to be noble, extravagant and grant to reflect their social status.
Since the Rufolo’s were siding with the forces fighting the English during the period of the Sicilian Vespers, they had fallen into disgrace. So they were forced to divide up the property. The villa was passed to several Italian families under the laws of succession, but by 1850 the villa was completely ruined. It was not until Sir Francis Nevile Reid bought the property, that the villa was restored and its terraces rearranged into gardens. After his death the villa was split up again and ornaments and furniture were sold. In 1974 the Board of Tourism bought the remaining private parts. They owned the villa until 2007 and then passed it on to the Fondazione Ravello who restored the villa and secure it.
Nowadays you can visit the villa and its magnificent garden, also known as the “Garden of the Soul”. The garden consists of two levels with tropical plants and beautiful terraces offfering breathtaking views of the glittering Tyrrhenian Sea, Minora and Maiori and one of Ravello’s most famous landmarks; the domes of the Annunziata Historic Building. Every year the Fondazione Ravello organises the Ravello Music Festival here.
Opening hours: 9.00 – 19.00 / entrance fee: 7€
Villa Cimbrone
Villa Cimbrone gets its name from the rocky outcrop on which it is built; Cimbronium. The villa dates back from the 11th century and belonged to a noble family. Later the villa became part of the nearby monastery of Santa Chiara. From the 17th century the villa’s history is rather vague. Mid 19th century the villa passed to the Amici family of Atrani. Ernest Beckett fell in love with the villa during his travels and he bought it from the Amici family in 1904. He restored and enlarged the villa and its gardens. In the 1960s the Vuilleumier family bought the estate. First as a private family home and now as a hotel.
Villa Cimbrone is one of the most expensive and luxurious hilltop hotels in Ravello. Staying here is only affordable for the happy few. But the good news is that you can visit its awe-inspiring extensive gardens for only 7€! Once you enter this marvelous estate, follow the long avenue overgrown with wisteria to the temple with the statue of Ceres to arrive at the Terrazza dell’Infinito! This massive terrace is lined by a set of sparkling white marble busts contrasting with the azure blue sky and offers the most glistening views stretching along the spellbinding Amalfi Coast at a height of 365 meters!
After admiring the views from the Terrazza dell’Infinito, you can explore the rest of the garden. I advise to take the path on the west side to Mercury’s seat and continue the path from there on, so you will not miss the Temple of Bacchus and Eve’s Grotta. The path will automatically lead you to a copy of Donatello’s David statue, the Terrazza delle Rose and the Moorish styled Tea Room. Before leaving make sure to visit the cloister and the crypt which are located right across the ticket office.
Opening hours: 9.00 – sunset / entrance fee: 7€
Giardini Principessa di Piemonte
This small garden decorated with magnificently manicured flower beds is free to visit and offers fantastic views of the Costiera Amalfitana. It is often used for wedding ceremonies.
Get wanderfully lost
Just wander around Ravello and explore as many streets as you can. You will encounter small gardens and parks offering views on the coast and Ravello’s monuments.
Where to stay in Ravello?
I loved staying at Hotel Villa Fraulo. This hotel used to be a medieval villa, built in the 13th century by a noble family. It is located in the town center, only a few steps away from the main square. All meals are served on the huge terrace decorated with a fountain, while you can enjoy the impressive view on Minori and Maiori. If you need to cool down, you can jump into the infinity pool. There was a breakfast menu you can choose from. The hotel has an elevator and an entrance at the east (low) and the west (high) side. So depending on which part of town you want to visit, you can take the elevator in stead of doing all the stairs in town.
Price for a standard double room in September: 206€/night, breakfast included. Book your stay at Hotel Villa Fraulo here!
Things you need to know before visiting Ravello
Since Ravello is situated higher up in the mountains, the weather is different from the coastal towns. The evenings are way cooler. I also experienced an evening with strong gusts of wind. From the terrace at the hotel’s reception I saw dark threatening clouds and veils of heavy rain approaching. Which even made the receptionist call his mother to ask whether she closed all the windows and took all the loose objects inside (the perks of understanding Italian…). That is how I knew it would become serious and decided to remain at the hotel to eat. Which was the right decision, because downstairs on the massive hotel terrace, the waiters were running, trying to save everything, while me and the receptionist were observing the approaching storm from the reception’s covered terrace. He even took more photos than I! Half an hour later all hell broke loose with pouring rain, flickering lightning and loud thunders. I have not experienced many thunderstorms like that! But two hours later it passed and the next morning it seemed as if nothing happened. It was the loudest dinner I ever had though!
A final stop at Massa Lubrense
Since there is only one road at the Amalfi Coast, I wanted to be closer to the airport on my final day. You never know if something happens on that road (falling rocks, an accident,…) and you will not be able to drive there and reach the airport on time. So I booked one night at Melrose Relais, a wonderful boutique hotel.
Melrose Relais is completely surrounded by olive trees and was the perfect place to enjoy a last relaxing day at the pool. I stayed at the junior suite, which has a terrace decorated with those typical blue-white majolica tiles offering stunning views on Capri and the Vesuvio!
The people working here were extremely nice and the food was delicious! Breakfast was served at their cute colorful bistrot and lunch at the pool bar. Due to Covid-19 the restaurant was closed, but they made a reservation for dinner at Antico Francischiello a little further down the road. This restaurant offers delightful meals in a traditional setting with a view of the Bay of Naples. I loved that they took the casserole straight from the oven to the table on a cart and then served the food on a plate right in front of me. Also the dessert I got to choose from a cart filled with all different kinds of cakes and pastries!
I spent my final day at the pool, enjoying the nice music and the good food. This is definitely a hotel I see myself staying at again in the future!
When is the best time to visit the Gulf of Naples and the Amalfi Coast?
The best periods to visit this beautiful region of Italy are spring and autumn (May and September preferably). Temperatures are bearable, you’ll be able to enjoy the beach and the crowds haven’t arrived yet. From April to June you will be able to enjoy the flowers the most. Take into account that a lot of hotels and restaurants close during the wintertime, so there will not be much to do.
Pin this Amalfi Coast Itinerary for later!
So that is it! I hope you enjoyed this “Amalfi Coast Itinerary” and that it will help to plan your own trip! I really tried to cover everything you need to know. Do not hesitate to leave your comments or questions down below! That way I can add more information if necessary!
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